I always reached for cool toners to combat brassiness, convinced they were the only thing that would fix my hair. But as time has passed (although I still feel 20-something), I found that using cool toners alone wasn't working the way it used to. The results were, dare I say it, too cool. My hair started to feel a bit lifeless, almost draining the warmth from my skin. On top of that, I just couldn't get my toner to last as long as I wanted. If you're finding yourself in the same boat, I'd love to show you how adding a little warmth might transform your hair.
Why Cool Toners Can Leave Your Hair Lifeless and Flat
Cool toners are fantastic for canceling out brassiness, but they can sometimes leave your hair looking lifeless and flat. Why? Cool shades absorb more light than they reflect, making them appear less dimensional—or flat—to our eyes. Since cool tones don’t reflect light well, that light isn't bouncing back onto your skin, which can make your complexion look ashy, dull, or washed out. Exactly the opposite of what we want, especially as we get older, right?
The Benefits of Adding a Bit of Warmth to Your Toner
Adding just a bit of warmth can truly transform your hair. Trust me, even if you love a cool-toned result (like I do), mixing in just a splash of warmth with your favorite toner makes all the difference. Unlike cool shades, which tend to absorb light, warm tones reflect it back, resulting in a brighter, more dimensional colour. That hint of warmth will not only give you a more flattering result but also add reflectivity (think: shine) to your hair, enhancing how light interacts with it. This helps prevent your colour from looking too ashy or washed out, bringing back that soft, shimmery dimension we all love.
How a Cool-Warm Blend Helps Extend the Life of Your Toner
If you've ever toned your hair with a cool shade only to watch it wash down the drain after the first shower, I totally feel your frustration. Cool tones can be harder to keep in the hair, not only because they’re opposite to the natural warmth most hair has, but also because they’re more vulnerable to things like UV rays, heat styling, and just normal hair washing.
Warm shades, on the other hand, tend to ‘stick’ better. Since they’re closer to the hair's natural undertones, they work with your colour rather than against it. Plus, warm tones reflect light more effectively, so they often appear more vibrant, even as they start to fade.
My Favorite Cool Toner Mixed with Just a Little Warmth
I wanted to give you a real example of how adding some warmth can truly transform a shade. I created a swatch of everyone's favorite cool blonde toner, Wella Color Charm T18 Lightest Ash Blonde. Then I created one with a warm toner, Wella Color Charm T11 Lightest Beige Blonde, which is very similar in terms of lightness.
Personally, I think both shades are pretty on their own, but they really become something beautiful when mixed together.
Here’s how I created the mixed shade:
- Wella T18 - 20ml (half a bottle)
- Wella T11 - 20ml (half a bottle)
- 20 Vol Developer - 80ml
Not only is it the perfect cool-but-not-too-ashy shade, but you also get all of those added benefits—adding life to your face, a soft reflect, and a longer-lasting colour.
Ready to try adding in a little warmth to your hair? You can find my favourite toners here. Trust me, once you try it, you'll never go back.